Somehow, I managed to get hold of the procedure to reset the Throttle Position Sensor, which I have been looking for since the engine overhaul, as I had dismantled and cleaned the throttle body
BHPian DocOn2Wheels recently shared this with other enthusiasts:
The Update and TPS reset!!
More than 3.5k km post engine dismantle, and the bike’s running fine. It starts well, sounds good to my ears, and pulls nicely. The only niggle is that slight noise from the top end when the engine gets heated up. For now, I’m trying hard to contain my OCD and going by ‘do not fix it until it’s broken’.
It was necessary in my case as the throttle valve idle position adjustment nut(not sure about the exact term) was disturbed at the ASC after the first engine overhaul. You can locate it by removing the right side throttle body cover and stay.
They did it in order to adjust the idle RPM. The manufacturer recommends not to disturb this nut as it is factory set and calibrated. Any adjustment might cause erratic throttle response, unstable Idle RPM, difficulty in engine startup, and failure of the Idle Air Control Valve. Unlike carburetted bikes, Idle RPM can’t be adjusted merely by adjusting the throttle valve position at idle. So what happened as a result was unstable idle RPM, erratic throttle response, and trouble starting, not sure about the IACV; hope it’s fine.
At this point, I would say it would be illogical of me to expect them to know anything more than an oil change. So I was never surprised by them doing so. Going back in the thread will make things clear if you’re in doubt.
Procedure itself:
Before starting, make sure there are no DTC(diagnostic trouble code) stored in the ECU, i.e, the MIL(engine check light) should be off when the engine is running. If there is, then you need to erase the DTC, which itself is a small procedure that I will come up with in the coming posts. Summary- no engine check light before you do this procedure.
There is a special tool for this purpose called the SCS short connector.
All it does is it shorts the SCS wire(Brown with yellow stripes) with the ground wire(green with yellow stripes). We will do the same with these jumper wires.
Steps:
Make sure the ignition key is off.
1. Remove the left side panel to access the DLC.
2. Remove the dummy connector.
3. Short the above-mentioned wires by connecting the jumper wire in the top two corner miniature sockets. It’s a 6-point connector, so make sure not to short the other wires.
4. Remove the EOT sensor connector and short using another jumper wire. It’s just a 2-point connector, so there will not be any confusion.
5. Keep the ignition switch in the On position
6. Turn the ignition key ON
7. You’ll notice that the MIL blinks every 0.3 seconds. This is the receiving pattern
8. Within 10 seconds of turning the ignition key, remove the jumper wire from the EOT sensor connector. Not from DLC.
9. Now you’ll notice that the MIL stays ON for 1.5s and will be off for 0.3s. This is the successful pattern.
10. Turn the ignition key off. Remove the jumper wire from DLC, reinstall everything in reverse order.
11. Start the bike and check the idle RPM.
Here is the videographic representation of the entire procedure.
Video: Link
See you soon
Till then, Happy Riding!!
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