BHPian DragonHawk recently shared this with other enthusiasts: “At the side of the great mountain, on its banks, Always served by great sages and worshipped by Gods, demons, yakshas, and serpents, I praise Kedara Eeshwara, the one and only Shiva” Kedarnath peak and the Kedarnath Dome are part of the Gangotri group of peaks in the abode of Western Garhwal Himalayas. Whether one treks through misty trails from Gaurikund or stands in silent reverence before Mahadev or one meditates in the solace of Rudra cave, every moment you feel like a whisper from the cosmos. This collection of original quotes and captions seeks to capture the essence of that spiritual sojourn-a pilgrimage that awakens the soul with each step. Kedarnath-Badrinath pilgrimage is popularly known as the Do Dham Yatra, an abode amid the majestic Himalayas of Uttarakhand. Kedar in particular is also part of Panch Kedar, which are worshipped in a specific sequence of pilgrimage. These sacred shrines, deeply woven into the spiritual fabric of Hinduism, form part of the revered Chhota Char Dham Yatra circuit, which also includes Yamunotri and Gangotri. Each of these divine abodes rests high in the Garhwal Himalayas, surrounded by landscapes that feel closer to heaven than earth. For many, this pilgrimage is not just a quest for spirituality but also a test of physical endurance, mental strength, and the will to face the unpredictable forces of nature. Having heard about the gruelling treks and rugged landscapes, recent mishaps near Gaurikund, I was mentally prepared, but the reality turned out to be far more demanding than I had imagined. Every phase of my journey has been deemed to challenge me on all fronts – physically, emotionally, and spiritually.The Beginning of The JourneyEver since my visit to Spiti last year, the longing to return to the Himalayas has grown much stronger. In fact, I don’t have any hesitation in saying that the Himalayas have smitten me. Now and then, I feel an itch in my feet that pushes me into the lap of the Himalayas. I believe, now, this is eternal, and I am elated that it is eternal. I had made a point to myself to keep going to the Himalayas as long as I can, first because it is there, and second, because it gives me so many endless reasons to celebrate life. This newfound love of the Himalayas will endure forever, and the thought fills me with joy. My journey began with an Air India Express flight from Mangaluru to New Delhi, where I met my friends arriving from Bengaluru. From there, we boarded the Vande Bharat Express, through the busy towns of Meerut and Roorkee, before reaching Haridwar via the Anand Vihar Terminal. Our Day 0 concluded with a comfortable stay at Hotel Le ROI, Haridwar, and excitement was brewing as the next day would mark the true beginning of our pilgrimage-one that would trace the sacred path along the five confluences of the Alaknanda River. We had booked a Toyota Innova Crysta for our to and fro journey from Haridwar to Sonprayag. The plan was to drive further to Sonprayag, passing through key spots like Devprayag, Srinagar, Rudraprayag, Guptkashi, Phata, Rampur, and Sitapur. The scenic stop at Devprayag was brief but awe-inspiring. This journey also made me read up on some of the rich history of Sanatan, various confluences of rivers along our way to Sonprayag. It helped me enrich my knowledge and connect better with the places, in addition to just passing through them. Below are the five confluences of the River Alakananda, which are famously referred to as the Panch Prayag,of which we got to witness the holy confluences at Sonprayag, Karnaprayag, Rudraprayag, and Devprayag.River Mandakini + River Vasuki Ganga = River Mandakini at SonprayagRiver Alakananda + River Dhauli Ganga = River Alakananda at near JoshimathRiver Alakananda + River Nandakini = River Alakananda at NandprayagRiver Alakananda + River Pindar Ganga = River Alakananda at KarnaprayagRiver Alakananda + River Mandakini = River Alakananda at RudraprayagRiver Alakananda + River Bhagirathi = River Ganga at DevprayagNotice the merging of two visible heavenly rivers, Alaknanda and Bhagirathi, to form the holy Ganges We reached Sonprayag around 8 after a leisurely 10-hour drive. Since our visit coincided with Navaratra dates, Sonprayag wasn’t bustling with crowds by its usual standards. The parking grounds that typically overflow with pilgrims had plenty of empty spaces. Our stay was booked at Gaurikund, a quaint yet bustling mountainous town, which is the base camp of Kedarnath, from where the 19 km long trek officially starts, and after reaching Sonprayag, we went through the checkpost where our registration is verified, and post verification, we walked towards the local jeep parking lot. We hired a local jeep for Rs 600 to drop us at our pre-booked hotel in Gaurikund. If going solo, they charge around 50rs/person, but one needs to wait till the Jeep is packed to the brim. Recent landslides had damaged the area, turning what was supposed to be a simple Jeep ride into a short but adventurous ride at dark, the roads laden with potent waterfalls, protruding rocks, and turning very narrow in certain places. Before beginning the trek, every pilgrim must register for the Kedarnath Yatra, either online through the Uttarakhand Tourism portal or at designated counters in Sonprayag. The registration is mandatory for safety tracking and includes verification of identification and basic health details. Once registered, pilgrims receive a Yatra slip with a QR code, which will be scanned at the Sonprayag checkpoint, which also has a health care center for people in need of checking vitals before heading towards high altitude. Also, if one is planning to visit Kedarnath by trek, it is always recommended that one plan their stay in Gaurikund instead of Sonprayag. Doing so helps you avoid the early morning rush and the long queues of pilgrims waiting for shared jeeps from Sonprayag. More importantly, it gives you just a small but valuable head start on the hike before the mules or horses start their ascent. After the mules or horses start, it gets crowded on the narrow paths and sometimes a bit chaotic, particularly in the early stages.Whispers of Dawn on the Kedarnath TrailGoing with tradition, we took a dip in the natural hot water spring at Gaurikund before starting our climb around 4 a.m. The spring, located next to the Gauri Temple, is reportedly where Adi Shankaracharya discovered the water and is thought to be healing and purifying. The legend goes that Goddess Parvati did penance here in an effort to win Lord Shiva’s heart, and even now the kund (pond) has that divine quality. The water, steaming gently in the cool air from the Himalayan snow, felt like a sacred blessing-soothing, warm, and invigorating. As we stood there in the pre-dawn stillness, with the surrounding peaks capped with snow and pilgrims murmuring their chants, the bath felt less like a ritual and more like a gentle initiation into this sacred journey. Gauri Devi Temple Hot Water Spring Matters of God and the divine are beyond reasoning. When there’s a knocking, we need to pay heed to it. The trek is not the most pristine walk, especially with the hordes of ponies ferrying devotees uphill and downhill. There are lot of horse dung all around, even though people are cleaning it at many places, but with the kind of volume, there is a limit to what these people can do. We were only into 40 mins of trek and had barely covered 2kms, and it started raining, with all hell broke loose. Even though we had the necessary rain gear, we decided to wait for the rain to subside by taking shelter at a nearby shop. After a 30min halt, we started our ascent again. The narrow stone-paved trail echoes with chants of “Har Har Mahadev,” the clatter of hooves, and the murmurs of countless pilgrims pushing forward with faith as their fuel. It’s important to set expectations right: this trek is far from easy. Though well-laid with stones, it demands stamina and spirit, with an ascent of nearly 2,000 meters. The Kedarnath trail is infamous for testing even seasoned trekkers, but for many, it is not endurance that drives them-it’s faith. You can sense that divine determination in the air as people from all walks of life begin their climb. The first few kilometres were manageable, but as we ventured deeper into the trek, the ruggedness of the path and the challenges of the journey became more apparent. The trail, shared by both pilgrims on foot and those riding mules and horses, often forced humans and animals to navigate precarious spaces together. At several points, I found myself narrowly avoiding a collision with a passing animal, a reminder of just how vulnerable the journey was. Except for the initial pounding of rain, as we climbed higher and higher weather was an inclination of bright sunshine and a mild breeze of cold air. Throughout the climb, one can find endless eateries and food joints satisfying the thirst and hunger of thousands of pilgrims en route to the shrine. Stone paved path shared by ponies and us One of those countless falls one encounters on the way River Mandakini in its glory Local eateries and tent houses enroute Ghoda Padav at Kedarnath Amidst the gruelling climb, there were moments of beauty amidst the struggle. We occasionally stopped to admire the breathtaking vistas. One of the unforgettable experiences one gets to enjoy is the raw, untouched beauty of the Himalayas. Yet, amid this splendor, there’s a tinge of sadness; this rawness is slowly getting shadowed by increased human activity, you guessed it right, right from plastics and garbage thrown everywhere, coupled with an unruly crowd, which makes me wonder why we are so hell bent on destroying the very place that is the foundation of Sanatan. What was meant to be a place for quiet reflection and spiritual solace is increasingly being transformed into a spectacle, often flaunted on social media, threatening the very serenity that draws pilgrims here. Continue reading about DragonHawk’s pilgrimage for BHPian comments, insights and more information.
