HYDERABAD: Fashion has different meanings for each designer. For some, it is subtlety, with blacks, whites, and beiges. For others, like the talented Ishita Singh, it is bright colours and intricate designs. Her latest collection, Genda Phool, is impressive work, using three different colours of fabric. She speaks to CE about her new collection and the local touch in her designs.
Tell us about the Genda Phool collection.
When you look at a country like India and its rich tradition and heritage, colours like red and yellow are dominant. So, the words Genda Phool just came to my mind.
Jamdani work has been done on Malai cotton. We have paired it with Banarasi borders and Ikkat blouses. Basically, it is a confluence of three different states, something which has not been done earlier. All the sarees in this collection have been woven specially by a weaver from Bengal who I met at an exhibition. I believe it is good to give such individuals a chance as they usually do not get such exposure.
How much time did the R&D take for these designs?
It took me at least a month and a half to come up with the entire concept. I started off with the fabric; the material is 120 count cotton, very soft, wearable and breathable. I wanted to keep it very simple, so I designed small buttis all over and added a few flower motifs on the pallus.
Then once the saree was woven, I thought that it had to have a little bit of bling and glamour — that’s where the Banarasi border came in. Being a designer working out of Telangana, I gave a touch of Ikkat. Bright colours are dominant because it suits the festive season well.
The colours that I chose are basically red, yellow and off-white. During Dasara, you see a lot of yellows and on Diwali, you see a lot of reds. I have, however, done one off-white piece, which is my personal favourite.
What are your inspirations in design?
Genda Phool is dedicated to the weaver. When I saw his weaves, I never thought that I would have an inclination towards sarees because I normally do westerns. But when I spoke to him, he had the urge and the spark to do something new. And just like that, the whole process worked out well.
How was the transition from working on westerns to Indian sarees?
Western wear is fairly simple — there is a basic structure which you then modify into crop tops or shirts. But sarees have that Indianness, conveying that the traditions and heritage of India are so rich that no matter how much you explore, it is still less. Designing sarees was simple because one knew that basically, it requires five and a half metres and a blouse.
When you look at silk and typical Banarasi sarees, they are heavy and even if they do a satin, all of them are five and a half metres and heavy to wear. I wanted to create a saree which is easy to drape, so I came up with pleated sarees. A few of my Banarasi sarees are pre-pleated; you can just tie it around and drape the pallu. The thought behind this collection itself is that I don’t want to think twice before draping something because of discomfort.
What is your next collection?
My next collection will be a fusion look of ethnic and western silhouettes.
Do you have any fashion tips for everyone?
Well, the one essential you should have in your wardrobe is a white shirt. Please be comfortable in whatever you wear because if you’re comfortable, you are confident and everything else just flows perfectly.
