As much as haleem is synonymous with Hyderabad — especially during Ramzan, when the city’s streets are lined with bustling stalls serving the dish — its culinary landscape extends far beyond this festive staple. With a rich heritage spanning over 450 years, Hyderabad’s food culture is as diverse as its history, reflected not just in its iconic landmarks like the Charminar but also in the vibrant street food scene. During Ramzan, the city’s cosmopolitan essence comes alive, offering a feast of flavours that go beyond the familiar.
From kaddu ki kheer (bottle gourd pudding), khowa jalebi, and Hyderabadi naan to pathar ka gosht (a mutton dish prepared by heating meat on a granite stone using charcoal), seekh kebab, chakna boti, and shami kebab, the city’s cuisine narrates stories of migration and cultural fusion.
Sweet treats like double ka meetha (bread pudding), khubani ka meetha (a dessert made from dried apricots), and jouzi halwa — a favorite of the last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan — sit alongside lesser-known gems like ande ka louz (diamond-shaped egg pudding) and badam ki jali (almond paste crafted into intricate jali patterns). Newer additions, such as gulab jamun ice (a drink made of gulab jamun and ice) and mango-malai with cream, reflect the city’s evolving palate.
The city’s cuisine narrates stories of migration and cultural fusion. (Express Photo/Rahul V Pisharody)
“Hyderabadis are connoisseurs, and they love their food. They are not bothered about where it comes from. They adapt it to suit their own palate,” says historian and columnist Sajjad Shahid.
A legacy of culinary influences
The city of Hyderabad was founded by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth ruler of the Golconda sultanate, in 1591, with the iconic Charminar as its foundation monument. Over the next four centuries, many rulers of the Qutb Shahi (Shia) and later Asaf Jahi (Sunni) dynasties administered Hyderabad Deccan, which includes parts of present-day Marathwada, Kalyana Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh. Over the centuries, the region’s cuisine absorbed influences from across the world.
Turkish elements arrived well before Hyderabad’s founding. “It was in the 1300s during the Delhi Sultanate, which later broke off and the kingdoms of the Deccan declared independence, that the influences from Turkeye were first seen. The Deccan Sultanate, unlike the Mughals, had a strong connection with the Safavid Empire in Iran. Kingdoms of the Deccan saw Safavids as their sovereign. Be it architecture or food, they were influenced by Iran,” explains Mohammed Sibghatullah Khan of the Deccan Archive, a research group documenting Hyderabad’s lesser-known history.
Over the centuries, the region’s cuisine absorbed influences from across the world. (Express Photo/Rahul V Pisharody)
Haleem, a dish synonymous with Hyderabad, exemplifies this cross-cultural exchange. “Haleem was first introduced to Hyderabad by the Yemeni people, the Arab guards who worked for the Nizam, who consume it as a regular food. Even today in Barkas (a locality south of Charminar with settlements of Yemeni descendants), haleem is a daily breakfast for the Yemeni descendants on any regular day. It was modified by people for Ramzan’s specific needs as it can deliver a lot of calories in a short period without being difficult to eat,” says Navin Sigamany of The Hyderabad Walking Company, which organises food tours.
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While haleem is available in Kashmir and Yemen, Hyderabad’s version stands apart due to its unique spice blend and preparation, says Sibghatullah. Hyderabadi haleem is the only meat-based dish in India to receive a GI (Geographical Indication) tag.
Shahid adds that both haleem and biryani originated as dishes for large gatherings and armies. “In medieval Deccani poetry, there are mentions of Biranj Kalia, which is cooked meat with rice, and later on, with Persian influence, the dish became biryani. Haleem and biryani are often the most spoken about but there are hundreds of other dishes that are equally important,” Shahid adds. “Until about 25-30 years ago, the city offered one of the most diverse food cultures in India, influenced by Telangana, Andhra, Rayalaseema, Karnataka, and Maharashtra,” he says.
Sibghatullah says that authentic Hyderabadi food is still available in areas like Purani Haveli and Yakutpura, where recipes remain untouched by tourist preferences. (Express Photo/Rahul V Pisharody)
Migration and culinary evolution
The imprint of migration on Hyderabad’s cuisine is evident in places like Yousufain Dargah in Nampally, where migrants from Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, and Delhi serve North Indian versions of nihari-paya, biryani, pulao, kebabs, and Mughlai dishes.
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Hyderabad’s famous Irani tea, served in nearly every street-side café, arrived with Persian immigrants in the early 20th century. Over time, Hyderabadis modified it by adding more milk. British colonial influence is evident in the Osmania biscuit, a cookie that traces its origins to the royal kitchens of the last Nizam.
“There are a whole lot of different food influences, and it’s not a modern phenomenon. Wave upon wave of cultural influences has not stopped. It has been happening, and our food traditions keep evolving, shaping our culture and economy,” says Sigamani.
“Hyderabadis are connoisseurs, and they love their food. They are not bothered about where it comes from. They adapt it to suit their own palate,” says historian and columnist Sajjad Shahid. (Express Photo/Rahul V Pisharody)
The British annexation of Awadh and the fall of the Mughal Empire in 1857 led to migration from north India to Hyderabad. Later, the establishment of Osmania University created a new educated middle class, and in the early 1950s and 1960s, Hyderabadis were among the first Indians to work in West Asia. “When they started returning in the 1980s and 1990s, brought with them Arabian food such as shawarma and later mandi,” Sigamani explains.
Sibghatullah says that authentic Hyderabadi food is still available in areas like Purani Haveli and Yakutpura, where recipes remain untouched by tourist preferences. “The hotness of Hyderabadi delicacies comes from a whole lot of spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, and the like, unlike the touristy palate which involves the use of a lot of red chilli,” he adds.
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Another modern shift, Sigamani notes, is the revival of coffee culture, which was overshadowed by tea during the British era. “Chai (tea) was introduced not more than 150 years ago in Hyderabad. Under the Qutb Shahis, Hyderabad was primarily a coffee or Kawah-drinking kingdom. Today, the world’s best brews are available in Hyderabad and coffee shops are mushrooming in every nook and corner, one example of how food culture enriches its economy.”
