Hyderabad, the capital of India’s Telangana state, is known as the “City of Nizams” – a reference to the title used by its rulers for centuries, and that hints at the city’s grace and its status as a centre of Islamic culture and Deccan arts, as well as its immense wealth derived from local diamond mines.
It’s also one of India’s most significant culinary heartlands and in 2019, Unesco recognised the city as a Creative City of Gastronomy. Rooted in traditional Telugu cooking, the local gastronomy stands as a delicious testament to centuries of cultural fusion, with the cuisine transformed by the arrival of Persian and Turkish flavours – first with the establishment of the 16th century Qutb Shahi dynasty and then the subsequent Mughal invasion.
Hyderabad is known as the “City of Nizams” – a reference to the title used by its rulers for centuries. Photo: Getty Images
The Nizams, who were the kings of Hyderabad from 1724, were epicureans and employed many foreign cooks in their palaces. More than any restaurant or cookbook, the royal kitchens helped preserve and further this diverse culinary heritage.
“The Nizams used to marry girls from Central Asia and the brides used to bring their own khansamas [house servants] or royal cooks, so that they could bring their cooking traditions with them,” explains celebrated chef Chalapathi Rao, of Simply South restaurant in Hyderabad. “This led to an amalgamation of influences from various countries. Because there was a lack of water in the rocky terrain, millet used to be the staple grain as it needed less water. Grains like rice came in much later.”
Jalaluddin Muhammad Akbar, the Great Mughal of India from 1556 to 1605. The evolution of Hyderabadi cuisine was shaped in part through the 17th century Mughal invasion. Photo: Getty Images
Today, Hyderabadi cuisine combines rice and meat, with a liberal use of vegetables, spices and souring agents like tamarind to make it distinctive. Thanks to its position in south-central India, the local fare offers a fine balance between the flavours of India’s northern plains and its coastal regions. This complex blend of Indian, Persian, Arabic, Mughlai and Turkish influences defines Hyderabadi contemporary cuisine.
“The influence of food from the North is evident in the rich and aromatic dishes, while the abundant spices from southern India and Telugu cuisine add a distinct touch,” notes Sampath Srinivas Thummula, the chef behind popular Hyderabad restaurant The Spicy Venue, which serves typical regional fare. “Ingredients like saffron, mace, black cardamom, cloves and cinnamon are predominantly used, but what sets Hyderabadi cuisine apart is the combination of these spices with tamarind, dry coconut, chillies from Guntur and curry leaves.”
